KUALA LUMPUR: Located in the heart of Bangsar, Coley Cocktail Bar has quickly become a favourite among locals and foreigners alike. Known for its exceptional cocktails crafted using the finest ingredients and techniques, Coley is the perfect destination for some of the most inventive and delicious drinks in the city.
More recently, proprietor C K Khoo recognised the need to reinvigorate its food menu to provide a more complete dining experience. To that end, he brought in Joel Kirk, previously from Sitka, to spearhead Coley’s kitchen alongside Brandon Tan.
Together, they have developed bold, vibrant, innovative selections comprising small plates, mains, and sharing dishes. Standouts include humorously named items such as Swiss Dreams are Made of Cheese, Dill with the Devil, Pulpo Fiction, and Coley’s version of steak frites, Steak Freaks.
Set The Tables picks Kirk’s brains to find out more about his new venture at Coley.
Set The Tables: How did you get started in the industry?
Joel Kirk: The value of service was instilled in me at a young age. I spent a significant portion of my childhood working with communities that promoted a culture of hospitality and encouraged us to seek to understand one another.
I take pleasure in facilitating the joyful experience of discovery through food, the interconnectedness felt through the act of hospitality, and the humble act of sharing.
Tell us about Coley in your own words.
C K and the Coley team have been the embodiment of hospitality for me. It’s not just a bar; they practise a form of service that is fluid: ask for any classic cocktail, tell them your preferred flavours, or request a recommendation from the menu.
They are welcoming and collaborative, as evidenced by their numerous projects with producers, operators, brands, and industry friends. They encourage and foster the desire to be explorative and inquisitive by trade, making it an incredible place to work while honing your craft.
What is the inspiration behind your new food menu?
While many people aim to sourcing the best ingredients, I am dedicated to elevating what I have. Every ingredient has a place on the plate, and no grain is too small to take centre stage.
When you dine with me, you are looking for that surprise I bring, having grown up in a small town in Klang called Kampung Raja Uda, finding my place in the city, and ideating the world as my playground.
Tell us more about the stories behind these dishes.
This new menu is a collaborative effort. Through multiple R&D sessions, many iterations were presented to bridge the gap between comforting and familiar, novel and exciting flavours, without straying from the essence of conviviality given our setting.
We found ourselves questioning every aspect of each dish and its significance. A chance purchase from a market vendor pushed us to make black garlic ketchup. Combined with slices of cheese we had lying around – and the fact that it looked and tasted like Welsh rarebit – Swiss Dreams was born.
A passing remark gave us Dill with the Devil. It was supposed to be a slice of scagliozzi (fried shapes of leftover polenta) at first, but someone said it tasted like fish and chips! So we experimented with the flavour, added tofu for texture, curried the batter, and added jalapenos to spice things up, with dill playing an important role in keeping things refreshing.
More stories await, but you’ll have to stop by for a drink or two to hear them all.
What’s the best thing about working in the kitchen?
Coley’s kitchen is only approximately 200 sq ft, with a four-burner gas stove, deep fryer, two-door chiller, chest freezer, and microwave. This alone is challenging and thrilling!
For me, it’s the challenge of cooking for the staff using whatever is readily available. The thrill comes from successfully putting things together within the limited space, while prepping for service and simultaneously preparing everything you need for the next few days because you want to keep food costs low and avoid waste.
What needs to happen to ensure the industry is better supported?
First, the old guard’s willingness to share knowledge and ideas, and their ongoing collaborative efforts within and outside the organisation. We must always keep an open mind, create a constructive and conducive environment in which to develop and act on new ideas, and strive for excellence.
Next, all related parties must accept that change is unavoidable, and sometimes sacrifice is required to move forward.
Always insist on upholding and instilling positive values, show reverence for the essence of the craft and, most importantly, choose to be kind when all else fails.
Find out more about Coley Cocktail Bar on Facebook and Instagram.
Coley Cocktail Bar
6-G, Jalan Abdullah,
Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur
Business hours: 5pm-1am daily (closed on Sundays)
Contact: 019-270 9179
This article was written by Theri Burhan for Set the Tables. Set the Tables is positioned to inspire and educate those in the industry as well as the aspiring reader who dreams of a future in the food business, and maybe even the merely curious tantalised by the vast and irresistible universe of food and drink.
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